Sammiches

FAIRHOPE, ALABAMA - For most of the spots we are visiting on this trip, we are letting them surprise us. Most often, we simply do not know what to expect. That was surely the case with Gulf Shores, Alabama, a long barrier island along the Gulf Coast at the mouth of Mobile Bay. Yes, we had read that the readers of Southern Living rank it as one of their favorite beaches, and we knew that our wonderful daughter-in-law Libby went there as a child with her family. She remembered a low-key family beach, one that they moved on to after Destin became overbuilt.

Gulf Shores today, from across the lagoon.

 So nothing quite prepared us for what has become of Gulf Shores. Hugh high-rises now string out along the beach. Gigantic water parks and other playpens for young and old surround the area. We have never seen so many people playing put-put golf. A beautiful 90-degree day and spring break drew in phenomenal crowds. This area is part of what is sometimes called the “redneck Riviera,” but be assured that most of those we saw were anything but rednecks.

This is America at play. People were having a good time, but it underscored for us that we are out of step with the readers of Southern Living (despite its great recipes).

So we headed quickly for the nearby Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge. There, we hiked for two miles through coastal maritime forests and over a long stretch of dunes and arrived at a totally deserted, spectacularly beautiful white sand beach. With the naked eye we could not spot another soul. It wasn’t just another world; it was a dreamscape. We walked, went in the water, sat in the sand. Gus ate a very good barbeque sammich he had bought earlier for lunch. See photos.

Mystical!

Barbeque in Foley.

We ate dinner last evening at Wintzell’s in Fairhope. It was some of the best seafood ever. Recommended.