NEW IBERIA, LOUISIANA – We attended the International Music
Festival in Lafayette last evening (Friday), and, after checking out the vast
scene—it’s the 29th annual and collects a huge crowd from around the
world, a great many of them quite unusual—we settled in to watch a premier
local act, The Lost Bayou Ramblers, roll out their fusion of Cajun and Pop.
Great music, once again. We got good seats on the steps of the US Courthouse,
and a local young man sat down there too. Pretty soon we were talking and when
we described what we were doing, he looked at us and said, “Oh, I see, a bucket
list trip.” We did not reply; just looked at each other and thought OMG. Is
that what we’re doing?!
| Lost Bayou Ramblers |
The Ramblers’ music was part of the sound track for “Beasts
of the Southern Wild,” which we believe is one of the greatest movies ever
made, bringing together as it does a fight against global warming, a struggle
to save a family and a marginalized community, and an attack on the barriers
the 1% have built to protect themselves but not others.
In a memorable scene, the Aurochs, fierce ancient animals,
have been freed from the melting prehistoric ice and now roaming the earth,
have arrived in southern Louisiana at the spot where the story’s lead
character, Hushpuppy, and her family and community live and struggle.
As these very large and seemingly vicious creatures
approach, Hushpuppy, a six-year old black girl, goes out to meet—actually
confront—them. The lead Auroch and Hushpuppy stand there looking each other in
the eye. And what we see in the Auroch’s eye, as it looks at this little girl
so full of innocence and commitment and fight, is not menace but respect and
awe and, indeed, reverence. And in a show of their knowledge that she is the
center of great struggles and inner strength, they kneel. The wild beasts
unleashed by climate change kneel before her in reverence. If this were a work
of nonfiction and the site of the confrontation could be found, local people
would declare the site sacred and erect something there.
On our trip to Lafayette yesterday we also went by St.
Martinville, a lovely little town that is the center of the region’s
celebration of Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s “Evangeline,” the long poem that
describes the Acadians’ (now Cajuns’) long journey to this region of Louisiana.
Before leaving on our short trip, we ate lunch at Victor’s
Café in New Iberia, which is featured in James Lee Burke’s fiction, a favorite
of his memorable character Dave Robicheaux. Interestingly, Gus asked for a
second joint and they didn’t know what he was talking about. In addition to
delicious fried chicken, Victor’s served a vast array of fresh vegetables—slaw,
okra, tomatoes, beets, broccoli, carrots —and it forcefully occurred to us that
for weeks we have been vegetable deprived!
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