CAPE SAN BLAS - This is our last day here at Paula’s pleasant cottage on
Cape San Blas. So perhaps it is a good time to reflect generally on this beautiful and interesting area.
It is called Florida’s Forgotten Coast and though it has now
been discovered for sure, the construction on the beaches is much newer than,
say, the construction near Charleston and Georgetown or even Hilton Head, and
it is almost all detached single-family homes and small beach-oriented
businesses with very, very few multi-story condos or other large structures.
Predictably some homes are more tasteful and some more storm-worthy than
others. Except for a few gated communities, the beach areas around here are the
opposite of planned. There is good public beach access for those not on the
front. Traffic on Cape San Blas Road is 1/1000 that of Palm Blvd at Isle of Palms.
| New San Blas beach houses. |
| Interesting! |
Also to the good is the fact that the area, in addition to
having a large supply of small restaurants—we’re heading out for the local
barbeque tonight having eaten our share of oysters—is surrounded by protected
areas—state parks, national forests and national wildlife refuges.
When we refer to “the area,” it would extend from St. Marks
NWR westward to Port St. Joe. See map at the bottom of this post. In the middle is attractive Apalachicola, and on
either side of the town are two grand features, a cape and an island, both
extending out into the Gulf. The ends of both Cape San Blas and St. George
Island are capped by lovely state parks.
We visited St. George State Park yesterday. Perhaps we are
prejudiced by our base here on San Blas, but we prefer it, though St. George is striking. Perhaps it
was because the St. George ranger asked our dogs to leave the beach, while we, tails
between our legs, could only follow. Since it was a chilly, cloudy day and we were the
only people on the beach, Gus turned to ask the Ranger for one good reason to
enforce the rules in such circumstances, but, uncharacteristically, he kept his
question to himself.
| Dogs lead Gus down San Blas beach. |
| Capers riding the waves; Weezie watching. |
It is a good time of year to be here. The temperature moves around 80 degrees; it's time for shorts. The wintering birds seem to have mostly departed, but there are plenty of herons, egret, mergansers, pelicans, cormorants, terns, waders, ospreys, hawks, grebes, and more. This morning we saw a new bird, the Eurasian Collared Dove, established in Florida in the 1980s and now spreading out across the country.
Paradise is not total here. All of the land around here is
very low, and the combination of sea level rise and greater frequency of strong
hurricanes increases the risk of flooding, powerful winds, storm surges, and
huge damage. On the way onto San Blas the road is currently saved from the
encroaching Gulf by a long row of giant rocks. See photo. Soon it may be San
Blas Island. Meanwhile, the Riverkeepers in Apalach say that loss of freshwater
flowing south out of Georgia is a main problem for the region’s all-important
fisheries. Apparently, freshwater removals even as far north as Atlanta
contribute. For example, the Flint River flows south out of Atlanta all the way
down through Georgia to Lake Seminole on the GA/FL border, and the Apalachicola River then flows out
of Lake Seminole. It is easy to see why there is conflict between Georgia and
Florida over water use in the region.
| The wall of rocks. If you click on the picture, that's Gus standing down there. |
Water use issues are springing up all over the south, a
region where fresh water was once thought endlessly abundant. See Gus’ recent
op ed in the Charleston newspaper linked here. There’s a beautiful photograph
of the Edisto River at this link: http://www.postandcourier.com/article/20150405/PC1002/150409613/1268/south-carolina-x2019-s-treasured-rivers-need-protection&source=RSS
And so it goes.
| Sorry, we haven't learned how to rotate photos yet. |
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ReplyDeleteThose Rocks look big enough to have come from Green Mountian Vt.
ReplyDelete